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When I am shooting wildlife photography with bursts of images at 20 or 30fps, I can fill up a card rather quickly. Additionally in this menu, you will find the “Auto Switch Media” setting, which is very handy for photographers like myself. The combinations are endless, so be sure to experiment with them to find what works best for you. If you want you could record photos to one card and videos to the other or duplicate all images to both cards while only shooting video on the other card. Media Settings” menu, you can decide how exactly you want your photo and video files written to those cards. With the Sony a1, you now have the ability to use either SD cards or the newer and faster CF Express Type A cards in either of the two slots available on the camera.
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Plus, I would much rather retain full control over how I choose to handle noise reduction regardless.įound in the “Shooting” menu under the “1: Image Quality” section you will find “Long Exposure NR” at the bottom of the 1st page of this section. For example, a 30-second exposure now requires 1 minute of time because of the mandatory second shot.
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While this process can be beneficial if you don’t fully understand how to deal with noise reduction in the processing phase, it doubles the amount of time required to take a single shot. It then takes what it finds and tries to remove those “hot pixels” from your original image. When shooting long exposures, this setting will force the camera to take a second image with the shutter closed to help the processor look for hot pixels (bright red pixels) that are often generated from the heat of an electronic sensor that is used for an extended period of time. One of the first settings that I like to turn off is “Long Exposure Noise” reduction that is on by default.
Lastly, you can choose to adjust the quality and image size of both HEIF or JPEG formats if you have decided to shoot either of those file formats.įound in the “Shooting” menu under the “1: Image Quality” section you will find “Image Quality Settings”. While I do plan on spending most of my time in the new Lossless Comp setting, it is important to note that the only times I have really seen a difference between any of these modes have been in situations with extreme contrast, such as night or astrophotography where you have a dark sky next to extremely bright stars. (smaller file size with no loss in image data) or Compressed (smallest file size with minimal loss in image data). Under RAW file type you can select Uncompressed (largest file size with no loss in image data), the new Lossless Comp. Additionally, you can choose the quality level of each of these formats. Here you can choose to shoot in JPEG or HEIF (depending on what you selected in the option above), RAW, RAW+JPEG, or even RAW+HEIF. Now it is time to select what kind of images you want to be shooting.
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If you have any questions, comments, or even your own recommendations you wish to share with others, please feel free to leave them in the comments section below.
As a Sony Artisan for the last 7 years, I have been using my Sony bodies on all seven continents photographing a mixture of landscape, travel, and wildlife photography. This is where I come in! Having already written several setup guides for Sony cameras ( a7R II, a7R III, a7R IV), I have a great foundation to build upon with the a1. With a redesigned menu system and a slew of new features and functionality built into the a1, it can take time to get things set up to match your needs. While all of this is good news, there is no doubt that regardless if you are upgrading from a previous Sony mirrorless camera or moving to Sony because of the a1, setting up a new camera can be a challenge.
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With an industry-leading AF system partnered with a 50mp stacked CMOS sensor and incredible video capabilities, Sony has appeared to pare the best elements of the Sony a7R series, a9 series, and even the a7S series into a single beast of a camera (with a price tag to match). With the launch of the a1, Sony has piqued the interest of ALOT of photographers out there.
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